While you sleep, your skin enters repair mode. Cell turnover increases, blood flow to the skin rises, and your body works to undo the damage inflicted during the day. This makes your nighttime skincare routine arguably more important than your morning one—the products you apply before bed have hours to work their magic while your skin is primed for regeneration.
Why Nighttime Skincare Is Different
Your skin behaves differently at night than during the day. Without exposure to UV rays, pollution, and environmental stressors, it can focus on repair and renewal rather than protection. Additionally, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases at night, meaning your skin loses more moisture while you sleep. Understanding these differences allows you to tailor your evening routine for maximum effectiveness.
Key differences between day and night skin behaviour include:
- Increased cell turnover: Skin cell regeneration peaks between 11 pm and midnight
- Higher permeability: Active ingredients penetrate more effectively at night
- Greater water loss: Without environmental humidity and daytime moisturisers, skin loses more water
- Decreased cortisol: Lower stress hormone levels allow better repair processes
- No UV exposure: You can use photosensitive ingredients like retinol that would be degraded by sunlight
đź’ˇ The Circadian Rhythm of Skin
Your skin has its own circadian rhythm, separate from your overall sleep-wake cycle. Skin repair peaks in the early hours of sleep, which is why consistently getting adequate sleep is one of the best things you can do for your complexion.
The Essential Nighttime Routine Steps
Step 1: Remove Makeup and Sunscreen
The first and arguably most important step of your evening routine is thorough cleansing. Everything you have applied to your skin during the day—makeup, sunscreen, moisturiser—needs to come off completely. Leaving residue on your skin overnight can clog pores, cause breakouts, and prevent your nighttime products from penetrating effectively.
Start with an oil-based cleanser like micellar water, cleansing oil, or balm. These products dissolve oil-based impurities (makeup, sunscreen, sebum) that water-based cleansers cannot remove alone. For micellar water, saturate a cotton pad and gently sweep it across your face, holding it against stubborn areas like the eyes for several seconds before wiping.
Step 2: Second Cleanse (Double Cleansing)
After your oil-based first cleanse, follow with a water-based cleanser to remove any remaining residue and address water-based impurities like sweat. This double-cleansing approach ensures your skin is truly clean—essential for the products that follow to work effectively.
Choose your second cleanser based on your skin type:
- Oily skin: Gel or foam cleansers
- Dry skin: Cream or milk cleansers
- Sensitive skin: Gentle, fragrance-free formulas
- Normal/combination: Gel cleansers or gentle foaming options
âś… Key Takeaway
If you did not wear makeup or heavy sunscreen, you can simplify to a single thorough cleanse. The goal is clean skin—not stripped skin. Over-cleansing can damage your moisture barrier.
Step 3: Exfoliation (Two to Three Times Weekly)
Exfoliation removes dead skin cells that accumulate on the surface, revealing fresher skin beneath and allowing subsequent products to penetrate better. However, exfoliation should not be a nightly occurrence—two to three times per week is sufficient for most skin types.
Choose between:
- Chemical exfoliants (AHAs/BHAs): Glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid dissolve dead cells without physical scrubbing
- Enzyme exfoliants: Gentler option using fruit enzymes to break down dead skin
- Physical exfoliants: Gentle scrubs with fine, rounded particles (avoid harsh, jagged scrubs)
On non-exfoliation nights, skip directly to the next step.
Step 4: Toner or Essence
Modern toners are nothing like the harsh, alcohol-laden products of decades past. Today's toners and essences hydrate, balance pH, and prep your skin to better absorb the products that follow. Apply to damp skin by pressing gently with your hands or a cotton pad.
Look for hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or soothing botanicals. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, toners containing niacinamide or witch hazel (alcohol-free versions) can help balance oil production.
Step 5: Serums and Treatments
This is where you address specific skin concerns with concentrated active ingredients. Nighttime is ideal for potent treatments that might be too strong for daytime use or that are degraded by sunlight.
Popular nighttime actives include:
- Retinol/Retinoids: The gold standard for anti-aging, retinol increases cell turnover and collagen production
- Vitamin C: Brightens skin and fights free radical damage (can also be used in the morning)
- Niacinamide: Regulates oil, minimises pores, and strengthens the skin barrier
- Peptides: Signal skin to produce more collagen
- Hyaluronic acid: Provides intense hydration by drawing moisture into the skin
⚠️ Active Ingredient Caution
Do not combine certain actives in the same routine. Retinol should not be used alongside AHA/BHA exfoliants or vitamin C (unless your skin is very tolerant). Alternate nights for these products or use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.
Step 6: Eye Cream
The skin around your eyes is thinner and more delicate than the rest of your face. It also lacks oil glands, making it prone to dryness and early signs of aging. A dedicated eye cream provides targeted care for this sensitive area.
Apply a pea-sized amount using your ring finger (which applies the least pressure) and gently pat—never rub—around the orbital bone. Look for ingredients like caffeine to reduce puffiness, peptides for firming, and hyaluronic acid for hydration.
Step 7: Moisturiser or Night Cream
Seal in all the layers beneath with a nourishing moisturiser. Your night cream can be richer than your daytime moisturiser since you do not need to worry about how it layers under sunscreen or makeup. Look for ingredients that support your skin's overnight repair:
- Ceramides: Repair and strengthen the skin barrier
- Squalane: A lightweight oil that mimics your skin's natural sebum
- Shea butter: Rich, nourishing moisture for dry skin
- Niacinamide: Strengthens the barrier and reduces inflammation
Step 8: Facial Oil (Optional)
If you have dry or mature skin, a facial oil can provide an extra layer of nourishment. Apply a few drops over your moisturiser to lock in everything beneath. Even oily skin can benefit from certain facial oils—jojoba and rosehip are non-comedogenic options that can actually help regulate sebum production.
đź’Ž Pro Tip
Apply your nighttime products in order of thinnest to thickest consistency. This ensures lighter products can penetrate before being sealed in by heavier ones. The order typically goes: toner, essence, serum, eye cream, moisturiser, oil.
Weekly Additions to Your Nighttime Routine
Face Masks
Once or twice a week, treat your skin to a face mask after cleansing. Choose based on your current skin needs:
- Hydrating masks: For dehydrated or dry skin
- Clay masks: For oily or congested skin (use only on oily areas if combination)
- Soothing masks: For irritated or sensitive skin
- Overnight sleeping masks: Intensive hydration that works while you sleep
Targeted Treatments
Spot treatments for acne, dark spots, or other concerns can be applied at the serum step on an as-needed basis. These concentrated treatments address specific issues without treating your entire face.
Common Nighttime Skincare Mistakes
Avoid these pitfalls that can undermine your nighttime routine:
- Skipping cleansing when tired: Sleeping in makeup is one of the worst things you can do for your skin
- Using too many actives: More is not always better—overloading your skin leads to irritation
- Applying products to dry skin: Most products work better on damp skin
- Neglecting your neck: Extend your routine below your jawline to prevent a mismatch between face and neck
- Not waiting between layers: Give each product a moment to absorb before applying the next
The Role of Sleep in Skin Health
No nighttime skincare routine can compensate for inadequate sleep. During deep sleep, your body releases growth hormone, which stimulates cell reproduction and repair. Chronic sleep deprivation leads to increased cortisol levels, which breaks down collagen and triggers inflammation.
Aim for seven to nine hours of quality sleep per night. Create a sleep-friendly environment by keeping your bedroom cool, dark, and free from electronic devices. Your skin—and your entire body—will thank you.
Conclusion
Your nighttime skincare routine is an investment in your skin's future. By thoroughly cleansing away the day's buildup and applying targeted treatments while your skin is in repair mode, you maximise the benefits of every product you use. Start with the basics—cleansing and moisturising—and gradually add treatments as your skin needs and tolerates them.
Remember that consistency matters more than perfection. A simple routine you follow every night will yield better results than an elaborate routine you only manage occasionally. Make your nighttime skincare a non-negotiable part of your evening ritual, and watch your skin transform over time.